I must say I was so glad to get to Korea. The pollution in Beijing is overwhelming – the sky is yellow or grey and it is difficult to breathe. My sinuses are just now getting back to normal, thank God! Korea is clean, has clean bathrooms (and lots of western toilets WITH TP) and the people are delighted to help tourists. When we went to visit cultural heritage sites or other touristic places there were souvenir shops but no “sales pitch” like in China. Many of us could have stayed another week. Prices are higher for some things, but some kids got some deals on shoes or other items. Food is delicious, healthy, not oily and all restaurants are required to use mineral water so you feel safe, Being vegetarian here is pretty easy.
I wanted to share some observations about the temples.
I had been reading Journey to the West which is an early novel, based on the historical journey of a Chinese Tang Dynasty priest who was sent to India by the Emperor to bring back more Buddhist knowledge and help to spread Buddhism in China (and then Korea & Japan). I visited the Pagoda in Xi’an, which was built to store the books of sutras or knowledge he brought back and also contains his relics. It was so lovely and not commercial in the least. I made a point of visiting a Daoist Temple in several towns and other Buddhist temples, too. I wanted to visit a Confucian temple, but was not able to—we just drove by the gate. The Daoist temple was very interesting. Daoism is based on the philosophy, written in poems, by Lao Tzu. His poems are so beautiful and talk about the Being and the Way, basically describing the state of being of an enlightened person who lives in the present moment, totally aware of one’s internal state of being, and the external reality as well.
I was wondering how the temple would be set up and how ceremonies would be conducted. The Daoist temple we visited in Souzhu was set up very much like a Buddhist temple, complete with statues of Buddha, the 2 bodhisattvas and protecting beings which flank them. THEN in nearby shrines were temples to the gods of longevity, luck, Guanyin (the Chinese Buddhist and others. Apparently, Lao Tzu never wanted to write down his teachings, but just before his death his students begged him to write things down and so he finally relented. 
He probably figured what would happen after he died. When the religion developed it included all the shamanistic elements of nature powers, superstitions (good luck god), occult and alchemy. Now most temples I visited (be they Buddhist, or Daoist ) include shrines to honored figures of the eastern triad: Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism. This morning I went to a Buddhist temple and among the shrines was one with the whole pantheon. Also the home of the fortuneteller at the Korean folk museum, this was the case. Perhaps this reflects the viewpoint of the author of Journey to the West (c 1400’s written about the voyage during the 700”s ad) which is to honor and respect Buddhism, Taoism and Confucionism as having much In common, especially their roles to uplift, educate and promote spirituality and human values..
When I went to meditate at the Buddhist temple in Seoul, I chose a shrine that only has Buddhist figures (the 3 mentioned above). There were red pillows piled up to use for meditation or for worship. People typically bowed 4 times before entering and there were white candles available for purchase in front of the main shrine. People light a candle (in a granite table filled with water an inch or so deep. The wax runs down into the pool and supports the next candles to be placed there – very practical and beautiful. Only $1 each. Free incense is there to light and place in incensors filled with sand, to carry your prayers heavenward.
I sat near an ancient bronze bell in the corner of the temple where there was a nice breeze. I did my breathing practices (which calm and center the mind & emotions) and then meditated about half an hour – just as I was finishing, a recorded male voice chanting “Om Mani Padme Om” (a traditional Buddhist chant) along with some other words in Korean, and banging a wooden block, in a rhythm.
During the chant, worshippers bowed (from standing to kneeling with hands and forehead on the floor, which is the traditional kowtow or way of showing respect. One woman near me had a notebook with a drawing and some Korean words written in beautiful calligraphy on her pillow as she did her bowing. This temple, which was across the street from the COEX Mall, ironically, (though you would never know it when you are inside—it feels so tranquil and serene) is a Zen Buddhist temple. This chant was different from the worship service I observed at another shrine at the same temple before I began my practices. The shrine was a Daoist one and the priest or monk, who wore a grey jacket and pants and white scart and red vest, kowtowed as he chanted and the other worshippers did the same. He did not use a musical instrument. At all the altars, there were bags of adzuki beans, rice, melons and apple pears (a fruit like an apple and a pear).
There were about 7 or 8 shrines at different levels of the lower portion of the mountain. And there were probably 100 or more people worshiping when I was there between 7:45 to 9:45 a.m. There was a clear majority of women, but about 1/3 were men – in their 40’s or older. The women appeared to be between late 20’s –to 70’s or so. I think I was the only westerner – although I saw a sign for a Temple Stay program of 2 or more days, where you can live among the monks as they do –eating and following the same schedule, so maybe there were more tourists or westerners I did not see.I really enjoyed my meditation and stay there! I loved Korea!!!
Pam B.
